Fine, fairly warm.
Sowed carnations (mixed perennial). Put roofing felt on henhouse. Paid for felt 9d a yard.
Both goats’ milk badly down, no doubt owing to being unable to graze yesterday. Being indoors also seems to affect their appetite for hard food.
14 eggs. Sold @ 2/- score.
No. this week: 94.


CORNER posts for fencing and gate posts are often rather a problem for landowners, especially in wet ground where they rot in a very few years unless expensive timber is used. Concrete posts certainly solve this problem and are not difficult or expensive to make.
It is a good plan to make some in a mould every day and stack them until a sufficient quantity is ready. Unless you have a concreted yard it is helpful to have two sheets of iron about 4ft. x 8ft. by not less than 1/8in. thick; one for mixing and one to lay the mould on.
To make a good job of these posts you require a mixture of six parts fine aggregate to one part of cement. Do not make it too wet; it should be wet enough to stop where it is put, not so that it flows off the shovel when picked up.
Now for a few words on making the mould. A six-post mould is a convenient size. To make this you require nine pieces of wood, one for top and bottom and seven for laterals. The top and bottom strips require slotting where the side sections go and holes made for the tenon part of the two longer side-pieces (see sketch). The five intermediate pieces should taper slightly so that they can be lifted out when the concrete has set.
There is no base to the mould; it is just laid on the sheet iron or concrete, laying a newspaper under first to prevent sticking.

* * *

Concrete alone is not strong enough for posts, it is necessary to reinforce it with iron rods. For this you require some 1/4 in. rod cut to the length of the post less about 2ins., also some finer wire for linking these rods together.
To make a post, first lay about 1in. concrete in the mould and well tamp it in, then insert two rods into this concrete spaced and held in position by the small wire to keep them from shifting. Put on the next layer of cement and on this lay two more rods as before. Add the last layer of concrete, tamp it well and with a trowel cut it off level with the top of the mould and smooth it over.
Continue this process with all six partitions. If the weather is hot and the job is done in sunlight it is advisable to cover the mould over with a wet sack as quick drying is not good for concrete.
After some hours the mould can be removed by taking out the four pegs, removing the top and bottom and then lifting up carefully the intermediate tapered pieces.
When the concrete is hard the posts should be stacked criss-cross, so that the air can circulate freely. Water should be thrown over the pile every now and then. If possible leave about two months before using.
If holes for wires are required, insert slightly tapered wooden pegs in the concrete when filling and twist them out when you remove the mould, do not pull them straight out.

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2 Responses to 17.6.39.

  1. There’s just nothing like the pitty-pat of little goat hooves around the house.

  2. Steve says:

    JL3rd: that’s exactly what I was thinking! We did have a litter of Hampshire piglets living with us one winter when I was a kid myself, but, hey, it was winter. Why keep the goats indoors? Maybe they were trying to eat the chickens’ roofing felt.

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